Diving in Menjangan Island: a remote coral wonderland in Bali

Nestled off its northwestern coast, Menjangan remains one of Bali’s most underrated dive destinations. Often overshadowed by more popular and more easily accessible diving spots such as Tulamben or Nusa Penida, Menjangan offers a tranquil escape with turquoise waters and vibrant coral gardens. Any underwater adventurer should make the effort to drive a little further and put the tiny island on the itinerary when going diving in Bali. Besides, Menjangan is part of the West Bali National Park, Indonesia’s oldest national park: its reefs have been protected for over a century. The extended travel time and the historical protection have made Menjangan a fabulous place for marine biodiversity enthusiasts who love having the spot almost to themselves.

I had the opportunity to explore Menjangan both underwater and on land in 2015 and again in late 2023. Each of my visits offered complementary perspectives on the island’s beauty and natural diversity. Menjangan ranks among Bali’s best dive sites, boasting colourful giant gorgonians, pygmy seahorses and clownfish. The island’s calm waters and shallow reefs provide ideal conditions for beginners, while its deeper walls are all about drift diving for advanced divers.

Menjangan Island also features an intriguing terrestrial aspect. Its name in Indonesian means “island of the deer“; indeed, its namesake deer can be spotted sunbathing on its beaches or grazing on its cliffs. This unique blend of natural wonders above and below the sea underscores why Menjangan should not be overlooked when planning a dive trip to Bali.

A marine protected area for more than 100 years

Established in 1917 and officially designated as a national park by the Indonesian government in 1941, West Bali National Park (Bali Barat) encompasses approximately 190 km², representing about 5% of Bali’s total land area. It remains to this day, the only national park in Bali. It starts after Pemuteran and stops before Gilimanuk (where you can take the ferry to Java). Beyond its protection status, a distinct advantage of Menjangan Island is its distance and travel time from the crowded south of Bali. Hence, it remains protected from mass tourism.

Bali Barat National Park serves as a sanctuary for a broad array of wildlife, both marine and on land; it is also a popular spot for bird watchers in Bali. Menjangan Island, though just a tiny part of this extensive park, plays a pivotal role in the region’s conservation efforts. The park’s early establishment at the beginning of the 20^th century has helped safeguard the island’s coral reefs from the damage seen in other parts of Indonesia (ever heard of dynamite fishing or blast fishing?).

The waters surrounding the island are renowned for their crystal-clear visibility, often extending up to 50 meters in the dry season, allowing divers an exceptional view of the reefs below. This protected underwater ecosystem, where over 110 identified coral species thrive, is arguably one of the best-preserved reef environments in Indonesia. Menjangan Island is a must-visit for those diving in Bali and an example of successful conservation practices in a world that desperately needs more of these sanctuaries.

The entrance ticket to the National Park is 200,000 Rp (12€) since July 2014. The price hasn’t changed since my first visit, but they introduced a higher fare on weekends and national holidays for foreigners, 300,000 Rp (17€). Scuba divers don’t have to take care of paying the entrance fee, it’s generally included in the price of their dives by the dive centre.

Menjangan is perfect for both beginner and experienced divers

Menjangan Island caters to all scuba diving levels, from beginners to advanced divers trained to descend to a depth of 40 m. The calm, sheltered waters around the island make it an ideal spot for Open Water divers and even enthusiast snorkelers, while the deep walls and thrilling drift dives attract experienced divers. Menjangan’s dive sites are adaptable to different skill levels, as it is easy to limit the maximum depth while maintaining an interesting route with plenty of corals and marine wildlife to see. However, some dive sites may be more exposed to currents, but your divemasters will carefully pick suitable sites for the divers on board each day.

The island might only be 39km², but it is surrounded by 11 dive sites that are all more interesting than each other. You can drift dive, wall dive, deep dive, and if you are into underwater photography, you will just want more! Here are the 3 dive sites I explored in 2015 and 2023:

• Pos II (short for Position 2; there is another dive site called Pos I)
• Coral Garden
• Eel Garden

Each time, I went down at a maximum depth of 25 m (there is not really much to see below) and enjoyed leisurely drift dives for 60 to 70 minutes. The boat picks you up at the end of the dive: there is no need to battle against the current as you glide effortlessly, adjusting the position of your body to the current to control your speed and give you enough time to see all the critters.

Each dive usually starts by following a wall, going and reaching the deepest point agreed upon at the briefing. Between giant gorgonians and barrel sponges, you will likely cross paths with batfish, crocodilefish and frogfish. Getting closer to the gorgonians, I could see a denise pygmy seahorse and various nudibranchs. Then, we follow up a sandy slope inhabited by the garden and sand moray eels. In the shallows, the hard corals and sea anemones are full of marine life, especially clownfish and anemone shrimps.

What to see underwater in Menjangan Island?

Dive sites like Pos II, Coral Garden, and Eel Garden are renowned for their marine biodiversity. The island’s underwater topography and gentle currents allow divers to combine a variety of dive environments in a single visit, such as deep walls, sandy slopes and coral gardens. My favourite encounter in Menjangan Island? The Denise pygmy seahorse, which I saw for the first time in nearly 15 years of diving.

I summed up below the fish species I saw in the waters of Menjangan, from the most common to the one-time encounters:

• Clownfish, Clarke’s & pink anemone fish
• Lionfish
• Batfish
• Garden & sand eel
• Green moray eel
• Spiny lobster
• Razorfish
• Stonefish
• Frogfish
• Crocodile fish

Menjangan, like many dive sites in Bali, is a paradise for underwater macro photographers. You’ll likely find nudibranchs and pygmy seahorses by looking closely at gorgonians, sea anemones and sponges. Here are the species I saw in Menjangan, from the most common to the one-time encounters:

• Anemone shrimp
• Leopard chromodoris
• Pyjama chromodoris
• Dusky nembrotha
• Eyed phyllid
• Spotted hypselodoris
• Desirable flabellina
• Susan’s flatworm
• Denise pygmy seahorse

Exploring Menjangan Island at the surface interval

Menjangan Island extends beyond its underwater treasures. During surface intervals, divers can explore the island, including the surroundings of a Balinese temple (the sanctuary is not open to visitors other than Balinese people coming to pray) and a white sand beach near the national park office with a view of East Java’s volcanoes, especially Mount Ijen. The latter is where we had a picnic on my first visit to Menjangan Island. I don’t think I’ve seen sand any whiter around Bali.

The island’s south side near the temple is the best place to spot the island’s namesake deer grazing in the underbrush. This side of the island is mostly made of cliffs, so it offers quite the vantage point on Bali’s northern shore. I noticed some deer coming to the jetty looking for freshwater as the island is rather dry, but please refrain from giving them food.

Beyond the beauty of its landscape, it’s impossible not to be struck by the intricately carved white Ganesh temple hanging above turquoise waters. The island also has a religious significance. Scuba divers and nature lovers are not the only ones showing up at the transfer jetty in Pelabuhan Lalang. Balinese people in traditional attire visit the island most days, bringing offerings and participating in cultural rituals highlighting this sanctuary’s spiritual importance. However, despite the numerous signs both in Indonesian and English prohibiting single-use plastics, we can only regret seeing these offerings are often packed in plastic bags that remain on the island.

Is it worth diving in Pemuteran after Menjangan Island?

Exploring Pemuteran’s dive sites after visiting Menjangan Island offers a different diving experience that can be a valuable addition to your itinerary. However, Pemuteran Bay, known for its muck diving spots, contrasts sharply with the pristine conditions found in Menjangan. During my recent visit, I engaged in night diving at the Macro Jetty, explored the Biorock project in Pemuteran Bay, an initiative aimed at coral restoration, and tried diving Pemuteran outer reef at Pulaki Reef.

The Biorock project, in particular, shows successful colonization by diverse marine life, including batfish and sea turtles playing hide-and-seek among the structures inspired by the Balinese culture. On the other hand, I have to be honest: My favourite part of diving the outer reef of Pemuteran was the boat ride with the view of Bali’s mountainous northern coastline.

The night dive at the Macro Jetty offered a stark introduction to muck diving in Indonesia, reminiscent of the famous but heavily polluted Lembeh Strait in Northern Sulawesi. Despite the waste and debris, the dive revealed fascinating marine life, such as a juvenile coconut octopus, a light pink thorny seahorse, and a rare butterfly nudibranch (Cierce Elegans) so transparent I didn’t know where to set the focus of my camera!

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My top tips for diving in Menjangan Island

I summed up below everything you need to know to prepare for your trip to go diving in Menjangan Island: best season, water temperatures, best dive centre and the best places to stay.

How to get to Menjangan Island?

Reaching Menjangan Island typically starts from Pemuteran, the closest hub with a range of dive centres, restaurants and hotels. Due to Menjangan’s remote location, it’s recommended that divers travel to Pemuteran a day before their dive to relax and start early the following morning.

The first time, I travelled to Pemuteran from Ubud, I took the scenic road through Bedugul, a highland area known for its cool climate and delicious strawberries. This route offers a refreshing stop and is the most direct route to the North of Bali. It took about four hours, including a short visit to Pura Ulun Danu (which might be Bali’s most famous postcard). Divers should note that this road should not be taken immediately after diving to prevent decompression sickness. Bedugul is at 1,500 m of altitude.

On my most recent trip, as I’m based in Amed, I travelled to Pemuteran via the northern coastal road that passes through Singaraja in 4 hours. Right after, Lovina Beach provides a delightful break for lunch. The journey between Tianyar and Kubutambahan is particularly pleasant, with some nice views of the ocean. This alternative route is suitable for those planning to drive right after diving, avoiding high-altitude roads.

Once in Pemuteran, accessing Menjangan Island is straightforward. Dive trips usually begin early in the morning with a 30-minute drive to Labuhan Lalang Jetty, where the dive operators handle all park and boat fees. From there, it’s a 15- to 20-minute boat ride to Menjangan Island’s first dive sites.

To get a complete diving experience in Bali and make the most of your time, an ideal itinerary including Menjangan Island would start in Ubud upon arrival, then move to Pemuteran via the scenic Bedugul route, continuing to Amed or Tulamben for more diving adventures, and possibly concluding with a visit to Nusa Lembongan or Penida, accessible by ferry from Padang Bai. It is then possible to reach Sanur by speedboat, which is the closest to the airport.

When to go diving in Menjangan Island?

The optimal months for diving at Menjangan are from May to October, during Bali’s dry season when underwater conditions are at their best. However, the protective status of the national park means that Menjangan Island offers good diving conditions nearly all year round, with slightly varying visibility but remains always decent.

The first time I went diving in Menjagan, it was in October and the visibility was fantastic. It was a little less true, especially in the deeper areas along the walls, when I returned diving there in late December. In both case, I always had warm water temperature with 29°C on average.

Which dive centre to choose to dive in Menjangan Island?

Pemuteran, the closest access point to Menjangan, hosts several reputable dive centres, with Dive Concepts Pemuteran being a solid choice. They are conveniently located within the same building as Hotel Arjuna, enhancing the ease of your stay. The proximity to comfortable accommodations allows divers to relax fully before and after their expeditions. Their all-inclusive packages typically cover accommodation, breakfast, transfer by van to Labuhan Lalang Jetty, boat ride to Menjangan Island, lunch and diving and rental equipment.

For those planning a trip to Menjangan Island, staying overnight in Pemuteran and considering a local operator like Dive Concepts is much better than booking with an operator from the south of Bali with a pick-up time of around 5 am. Staying at least one night in Pemuteran makes the trip less rushed and tends to be more cost-effective. This approach avoids the complications of long-distance travel and potential decompression issues associated with driving at higher altitudes right after diving.

Where to stay near Menjangan Island?

Pemuteran, the nearest village to Menjangan, offers a range of lodging options, from budget homestays to luxurious resorts, making it an ideal base for divers. The charm and tranquillity of Pemuteran haven’t changed over the years, except for a few additional yummy eateries along the main road (I recommend the Sage for a tasty and healthy dinner).

Arjuna Homestay is one of the best options for a stylish retreat at the best price for scuba divers. Located alongside Dive Concepts, it offers divers double, twin and family rooms with tasteful decor and a long swimming pool in the shade of frangipani trees. Having tested both the ground-floor rooms with direct access to the pool and the first-floor rooms, I preferred the latter since the view from the balcony is incredible. And let’s give a special mention to the delicious breakfast buffet (best crepes I have eaten in Bali) served on their rooftop terrace with incredible views of the mountain backdrop.

If you’re looking to splurge on your nature getaway, there is a luxury resort right in the West Bali National Park, the Nusa Bay Menjangan. It is not for all budgets, but the experience looks amazing.

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