Top 10 reasons to go diving in Amed while exploring Bali

There is a hidden gem on the northeast coast of Bali that defies the notion that the island is now overrun with overtourism and traffic jams. Welcome to Amed—a tranquil fishermen’s village where life moves at a slower pace. Yes, it is a three-hour drive from Denpasar airport to reach it, and any loud music must stop by 11 pm, but that’s precisely why people like me love it. With numerous dive sites from Melasti to Banyuning, stretching over 10 km of coastline, Amed must be on your itinerary if you are going diving in Bali.

As I’m taking slow travel a step further, I decided to make it my regional base while exploring Indonesia and neighbouring Southeast Asian countries. Over a year, I had the opportunity to delve deep into what Amed and its surrounding province offer passionate divers seeking a genuine immersion into the Balinese culture. Turtles, nudibranchs and shipwrecks are just the beginning of why you shouldn’t miss spending a few days diving in Amed while exploring Bali.

1. Swimming with turtles has never been easier

Amed might be the ultimate spot in Bali to swim with sea turtles due to how easy it is to spot them. Whether scuba diving or snorkelling, you’ll likely encounter one or more hawksbill or green turtles between 5 and 10 m deep. While turtles can be spotted all along the coast, the hotspots are at Pyramids (in front of Warung Bobo) and Lipah Beach (in front of Warung Indah). I’ve had a 100% success rate at both locations up to now.

To maximize your chances, head out in the morning when turtles are most active, munching on seagrass and coral. If you’re snorkelling and prefer calmer waters, Lipah Beach is a safer option with its sheltered sandy bay. It takes about 10-15 minutes by scooter from Central Amed, where Pyramids is located, but the latter is also a drift dive site for scuba divers with potentially strong currents (see below). You can go directly from the beach and swim out for a few minutes or hop on a traditional jukung boat for a reasonable cost. For those travelling without any diving or snorkelling gear, you can rent a kit easily everywhere near the water for 50,000 to 60,000 IDR (3 to 4 €). You can also book ahead a private snorkelling tour in Amed with everything included,

Remember, always respect marine life and do not touch the turtles. They have a protective layer that shields them from parasites, and touching them can cause harm. They usually don’t mind a friendly approach but keep a respectful distance. If you’re hoping for a great photo, be patient. Wait for them to ascend to breathe at the surface every 10 to 15 minutes—this is the perfect moment for that unforgettable shot.

2. Finding the underwater temple in Jemeluk Bay

With its sheltered bay near the centre of Amed, Jemeluk offers a mix of shallow coral reefs and a deep wall, making it by far the most popular dive site in Amed. Unfortunately, its easy access has led to issues with some snorkelers standing on corals and feeding fish, which harms the marine ecosystem. However, the local diving community is actively working on coral propagation projects to restore and protect the reef . The underwater temple stands out among the artificial reef structures, offering a unique and photogenic spot. While not an actual sunken Balinese temple, the elegant structure has become a thriving habitat for marine life and makes a photogenic background for scuba divers, as well as free divers who like using it for training as a reference point.

Dives in Jemeluk Bay typically start by reaching the sandy slopes between 10 and 20 meters and taking a right turn. This first part is home to large pink and orange gorgonians, some of the most beautiful I’ve seen in the entire area, and here and there, sea anemones and their anemone fish. I also frequently crossed paths with peacock mantis rushing to go from one den to another.

Depending on your certification level and air consumption, you can explore the wall that descends to 35 m. Most people explore the wall then the bay in two different dive. I went to the end of the wall twice, but the beginning is by far the most interesting, both for the topography and the marine life. However if you take the option of being dropped by a jukung boat at the end of the wall, it is worthy to stay in the shallower upper reef around 15 m deep before reaching the beginning of the wall and go deeper. Usually, the wall of Jemeluk is where I spotted the most interesting species in all of my dives : leaf scorpionfish, white-spotted boxfish, clownfish, a turtle once and my first juvenile batfish.  

On the return ascent, you’ll encounter the coral propagation structures. After a few fin kicks, the underwater temple will appear—a fantastic spot for wide-angle underwater photography. On several occasions, I had schools of squids passing by at that level. And then from there, when we started ascending to the safety stop, I frequently saw nudibranchs mating : couples of hypselodoris (Tryon’s and Bullock’s) with their bright colour and patterns make a great macro photography subject. If you have enough air, you might also extend the dive to see the elegant Balinese statues where diamond fish, lionfish and batfish often hang around them. You can also decide to go back for another dive on the left side, but besides the statues, that’s not my favourite.

• 19/11/2023 : 27 m – 56 min – 28°C
• 06/03/2024 : 19 m – 45 min – 29°C
• 31/03/2024 : 31 m – 80 min – 28°C
• 12/05/2024 : 21 m – 104 min – 28°C
• 02/06/2024 : 28 m – 62 min – 27°C
• 26/11/2024 : 23 m – 90 min – 27°C

4. Brushing up your drift diving skills in Pyramids & Bunutan

Diving in Indonesia is famous for its powerful drift dive and unsettling down and up currents. But if you’re still working on getting the skills and experience to face these conditions safely without emptying your tank in 20 minutes, Amed will be ideal for you. Before heading to Nusa Penida or Komodo, a couple of dives in Amed’s drift dive sites will help you understand how to position your body and carefully adjust your buoyancy in sustained but manageable currents.

Pyramids

Initially, the idea of diving among concrete pyramids didn’t excite me much. However, my first dive at the Pyramids completely changed my perspective. Before reaching the artificial structures between 18 and 22 meters deep, you pass through a gorgeous coral garden teeming with life. This area is a hotspot for sea turtles, which you can encounter during the descent and the ascent. Besides the turtles, the two friends who came diving with me there particularly loved the giant blue starfish all over the natural reef.

The Pyramids, installed over 25 years ago, have become vibrant artificial reefs adorned with colourful gorgonians, feather stars, and soft corals. As you drift effortlessly with the current, you’ll encounter lionfish, moray eels, and leaf scorpionfish. I even saw a baby white-tip reef shark once (I heard it is usual around March-April, and indeed it was during a dive in March). Large schools of yellow snappers and damselfish swirl around them and all around you while blue-spotted stingrays camouflage themselves in the sand. My highlight was spotting a pygmy seahorse hiding between the last two pyramids. Due to the currents, macro underwater photography is a real challenge to get a sharp picture. This is definitely a fantastic dive site with a little bit of everything for everyone. I would say it’s my 2^nd favourite dive site in Amed.

My dive log in Pyramids:

• 06/03/2024 : 19 m – 45 min – 29°C
• 02/06/2024 : 22 m – 62 min – 27°C

Bunutan

I only got to explore this one recently as it is necessary to go with a boat following you as you end the dive down a cliff. I’m so glad I didn’t skip it because the reef in Bunutan left a big impression on me. You can either board a jukung boat (2 divers per boat) at Jemeluk Bay or at Lipah Beach since it’s right in between. The dive starts off the beach of Bunutan, below Waeni’s Sunset Point. The boat ride with Mount Agung overlooking the sea is already a fantastic introduction to how pleasant this dive site is.

On both dives, we descended on a garden eel sandy patch around 10m, and right away, we saw sea turtles grazing around. As you reach the reef, it is cool marine critter after cool marine critter: ribbon eels (blue, yellow and black), laced moray eels, octopus and a leaf scorpion fish. Descending to the deepest point, the reef is mostly made of giant barrel sponges. Sure, you see beautiful pink ones all around Bali, but never had I seen so many forming an actual reef with gorgonians here and there. This dive site deserves to be in my top 5 for Amed.

My dive log in Bunutan:

• 25/10/2024 : 27 m – 59 min – 26°C
• 26/11/2024 : 28 m – 90 min – 28°C

6. Shore diving day and night from the beach

Diving in Amed is predominantly shore-based, making it incredibly convenient to dive throughout the day without rushing. With your gear loaded onto a van or truck at the dive centre, you’re just minutes away from the min dive sites. This ease of access allows for up to four dives from morning to evening. Even drift diving can be shore-based, like in Pyramids, the dive centre’s van just comes to pick you up a little bit further down the road.

From Melasti to Jemeluk, the water entry is from the black sandy beach, making it particularly easy to get in if there are no big waves (which can happen during the windy season from June to September). From Bunutan to Banyuning, you must be more careful of the small round pebbles, like at the Japanese Shipwreck. They tend to roll below your feet, but it’s never as hazardous as some dive sites in Tulamben. But even in that area, in the middle, you have Lipah Beach, which is perfectly flat and presents a surprising mix of white and black sand.

Dive centres typically provide booties and open-heel fins as part of their rental equipment, so whatever the dive site, you’re covered if you’re not travelling with your own gear (or you only have full foot fins). Note that from Lipah, dive sites tend to be explored by boat due to the currents progressively increasing in the direction of Gili Selang (Bali’s easternmost point).

Night diving is also a highlight in Amed, with sites like Melasti Beach and Jemeluk Bay offering fascinating nocturnal marine life. But the ultimate night dive site for people in the known is in front of Melasti Beach in Amed. My first attempt wasn’t that successful, mainly because the navigation isn’t straightforward. There is a long, shallow sandy bottom hardly deeper than 8 m, and it’s easy to miss the slope if you don’t fin kick enough far out. On my second attempt, it was octopus galore with a dozen of coconut octopus at all depths. Around 15 m deep, a thick rope is the ultimate spot for macro critters lovers, either nudibranchs, crabs or shrimps. There, I saw for the very first time a soft coral spider crab, also called the decorator crab.

My dive log in Melasti (Amed):

• 05/05/2024 : 8 m – 91 min – 29°C
• 02/11/2024 : 18 m – 77 min – 23°C

7. Free pick-up from dive centres, wherever you stay

While getting around Amed is not as easy as in the south of the island as the drivers’ apps are not available (see below), diving logistics in Amed is a breeze. Whether staying in Melasti or Lipah, most dive centres will arrange transportation from and back to your accommodation, making your diving experience hassle-free. Indeed, since most diving is shore-based, they all have vans or trucks available to offer this service for free.

This is a great way to explore the area without additional expenses as you move from dive site to dive site (the diving area of Amed covers more than 10 km of coastline, without counting Tulamben). Note a short taxi ride in Amed usually costs between 100,000 and 200,000 IDR (6-12€), so for a return trip to the dive centre it’s a significant saving.

8. Stunning views of Mount Agung all around Amed

Amed and its surroundings offer some of the most spectacular views overlooking the majestic Mount Agung. Oriented to the northeast, it’s not possible to see the sunrise or sunset fully in Amed. However, the red colours lighting Agung at dawn and the sun passing behind it, painting the sky pink and purple at the end of the day, definitely make up for it.

After trying many cafés and rooftops from Melasti to Bunutan, here are my top spots to enjoy this magical scenery:

• Central Amed: Warung Bobo – the best sunset view directly on the beach
• Jemeluk: Sunset Point, See You Again Café, Blue Earth Village – ultimate sunset view from the cliff above the bay.
• Bunutan: Waeni’s Sunset View – offers a partial view of Mount Agung from the cliff in a quieter atmosphere.

But if it wasn’t enough, only 30 minutes of driving around Amed, there are other stunning viewpoints of Mount Agung. If you’re a confident driver with an international licence, rent a scooter and enjoy the journey through the Balinese countryside. Here are my favourites:

• Lahangan Sweet: This breathtaking viewpoint offers views of Mount Agung from a high vantage point. You’ll have plenty of options to take pictures thanks to several photo spots, including a Balinese gate mimicking Lempuyang Temple (but without the long wait) and two tree platforms. Be aware you need to be lucky with the weather on both Agung and Lempuyang Hill sides to enjoy it fully (on my first attempt, I was welcomed by heavy rain, whereas it was sunny in the valley). The entrance, including a jeep ride for the last kilometre, costs 100,000 IDR (6€). You may add 70,000 IDR if you take the shuttle at the bottom of the hill if you don’t feel like driving the steep road (more manageable with a scooter than a car).

• Bukit Cinta: This viewpoint offers panoramic views of Mount Agung over rice fields. Follow the directions on Google Maps, but be there before 8 am to enjoy it with the best light. There is a garden above the road that you can get into for a higher vantage point, and access is entirely free. But this is not the only stop-worthy view: From there, go down to Cinggu View in the village of Pedalung (which you just saw from above). Take the time to walk around, soak in the views and say “Halo”; you might end up like me, being invited to harvest the rice with Balinese farmers. As you return to Amed, take the road via Basangalas for more stunning Agung views through the rice fields and stop at Berina Rice Terraces café. Hanging by the cliff above the lush green valley, you’ll taste the best pisang goreng (banana fritters) I had in Bali.

9. Away from overtourism but not delicious food

Amed offers a peaceful retreat from Bali’s crowded tourist hubs like Canggu, Uluwatu or Ubud. Unlike Tulamben, Amed provides a balanced mix of peaceful fishermen’s villages with many restaurants, cafés, live music venues, spas, and yoga studios along its coastline. If party animals might find it boring, those of us who are all about chilling peacefully at sunset with drinks on the beach will love it.

Food-wise, my favourite local warung (traditional restaurants) for the best Indonesian food at great prices are:

• Warung Segara: For the best grilled fish on the beach. Their mahi-mahi grilled fillet with rice and stir-fried veggies in coconut oil is always a winning choice.
• Warung Kita: You must try their homemade noodles, whether in a soup with bakso (meatballs – usually chicken) or a vegetarian mie goreng (fried noodles).
• Warung Enak: Just a bit more expensive, they offer organic Indonesian and international food in Central Amed; their nasi campur (rice with a selection of Indonesian dishes) and dragon fruit cheesecake are to die for.
• Super Pedas: Open only at lunch; it’s a nasi tempong where you get a rice base and choose your sides from the buffet. For around 25,000 IDR (1,50€), I can pick all the yummiest veggie recipes, including eggplant, green beans, corn fritters, tempeh and tofu all covered in sambal (chili sauce).

For sightseeing, Amed serves as a gateway to some of Karangasem Regency’s stunning spots, here are my favourite places:

• Tirta Gangga, Taman Ujung & Puri Agung: Taman Ujung and Tirta Gangga water palaces are beautiful historical sites with extensive gardens and pools that once belonged to the last king of Karangasem. Taman Ujung is my favourite, offering lovely ocean views from its top, manicured flower gardens, and elegant pavilions and bridges over two large pools. Tirta Gangga, on the other hand, is way more popular. Known for its koi fish ponds, which you can cross by stepping from stone to stone, it’s smaller than Taman Ujung and quickly gets crowded after 9 am. Note Tirta Gangga opens at 6 am, while Taman Ujung opens at 7 am. Finally, you’ll find Puri Agung Karangasem between these two. It’s the oldest of the three palaces, built in the late 19th century. The descendants of the king still live on the premises, creating a village-like feel with a mix of Chinese, Dutch, and Balinese architectural styles. During my visit, I was alone except for a Balinese couple getting ready for their wedding photoshoot – Entrance fees from 30,000 to 100,000 IDR (about 2 to 6€).

• Jagasatru waterfall: The closest waterfall from Amed, about 50 min driving away, features a giant golden statue of the god Brahma. It’s another of these spots where I was completely alone. There is no entrance fee, it’s donation-based. It is a sacred place with a pool for prayers, so no swimming in. But just for the adventure of getting there (really steep road), I promise it’s worth it.

• Virgin Beach: Half way between Amlapura and Candi Dasa, about 1 hour away from Amed, this secluded white-sand beach never fails to amaze. However, be careful of the powerful waves and the rip currents on the sides. There are two roads to get there; I prefer the one closer to Candi Dasa, as you arrive via the top of a cliff with a perfect birds-eye view of the beach. Rarely crowded, it’s the ultimate spot for a coconut and a massage with the sound of the waves. Access to the beach is 15,000 IDR per person (less than 1€).

For those who decide a little longer and want a deeper dive into the local culture, don’t miss the arrival of the fishermen around 8 am, and sea salt making on the beach from August to November; you might also go on a scooter road trip to the Gili Selang lighthouse (Bali Easternmost point), venture to the largest traditional market of East Bali in Amlapura (Pasar tradisional Amlapura), or even learn how to write in Balinese Aksara at the Lontar museum.

No, it’s not a mistake: I didn’t include Lempuyang Temple. Why? If there is an overrated spot in the area, this is the one. People come only here for a famous picture they want to reproduce and wait on average 4 hours for a reflection shot with the view of Agung between the temple’s gate (if the weather is clear), which is not real. There is no pond; the reflection is created with a mirror. And the worst, after paying for parking, shuttle and entrance, you can’t even visit further than the main courtyard. And by the way, feel free to skip Maha Gangga Valley and the Luwak Coffee Plantation; these are just tourist traps.

10. Tulamben is only 20 minutes away

Amed’s proximity to Tulamben, just a 20-minute drive away, is a significant advantage. Tulamben is home to the famous USAT Liberty shipwreck—arguably Bali’s top dive site. This WWII wreck sits between 5 and 30 meters deep and is accessible to divers of all levels. Diving here at sunrise or in the afternoon is recommended to avoid the crowds coming from all over the island every day.

Tulamben also offers exceptional macro diving sites like Melasti and Seraya Secrets, which are ideal for beginners in underwater photography. For experienced macro underwater photographers, sites like Batu Niti and Gerombong present a treasure trove of tiny and rare critters.

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My top tips for going diving in Amed

Below is everything you need to know to prepare for your diving trip to Amed: best season, water temperatures, best dive centres and where to stay.

When to go diving in Amed?

The best time to dive in Amed is during the dry season from May to October, when water conditions are the clearest. However, Amed is a year-round diving destination. Even during the rainy season (November to April), the weather is generally warm, with occasional showers (usually more before sunrise and in the afternoon). Visibility typically ranges from 15 to 30 meters. Still, sometimes it can reach up to 40 meters, even during the rainy season (the best conditions I got was one day in March).

Water temperatures range from 26°C to 30°C; water is at its warmest from October to April and at its “coldest” in July-August (which is also when the air is the coolest but at the peak touristic season). A rashguard or a 1 mm skin suit can be more than enough in the warmest period, but I enjoy my 3 mm full wetsuit when the water is around 26-27°C. Note that sometimes the currents bring thermoclines as cold as 23°C in the deepest parts.

Which dive centre to choose in Amed?

Dive Concepts offers training and guided dives at the most affordable rates in the area, including free pick-up and free Nitrox for certified divers. Their dive centre is in Central Amed, where most shops and restaurants are. It is a sister location to their main base in Tulamben, where they have their compressor and equipment. This particularity also explains why they primarily focus on diving at Pyramids and Jemeluk in Amed and then they take people to their Tulamben dive centre for the Liberty shipwreck and macro diving spots. They offer free transportation with their minibus all over Amed and Tulamben. Note that if you want to pass some scuba diving certifications, their team of instructors is mostly French.

Fresh Fins is one of the newest dive centres in Amed, and as such, they did their best to bring something which wasn’t really seen around Amed so far: a premium experience. Their beautiful dive centre in Jemeluk features a gorgeous bamboo structure below a big mango tree and a delightful pool dedicated to training (but also people chilling after their dive) in addition to spotless bathrooms and showers (not a given in Bali).

For those who want to discover the dive sites of Amed beyond the sometimes too popular places like Jemeluk Bay, they will take you to the best dive sites away from the crowds from Amed to Tulamben. For night diving in Amed, this is also the best option. They offer free pick-up around Amed and include lunch and drinks in their 2-tank morning trips. Note that dive professionals from Divemaster and divers with their gear get a special discount. The owners are American and South African, so it’s ideal for English speakers.

Where to stay in Amed?

Your choice of accommodation can impact your experience in Amed, be aware of the accessibility and walkability if you don’t plan on renting a scooter. Here are my recommendations of the best value-for-money hotels I found:

• Central Amed: For easy access to most dive shops, restaurants and cafés – Recommended stay: Salt Resort, a cosy resort with a sizeable pool right by the beach with even a few sunbeds on the beach, which is rare enough to highlight.
• Jemeluk: Perfect for sunset views. Note that without a scooter, you’ll need to climb a steep slope to reach the part on the top of the cliff – Recommended stay: Blue Earth Village, if you are looking for breathtaking views and quirky accommodation with character, this is a one-of-a-kind place in Amed; they also feature the most beautiful yoga studio in town.

• Bunutan: this area offers breathtaking sea views from the hills and quieter surroundings. Having your own transportation is essential here, or you will feel stranded – Recommended stay: Harmony Bungalow & Villas, beautiful garden with a café surrounded by cosy bungalows and a couple of luxury villas with their private pool.
• Lipah: If you want to stay near a beautiful and quiet sandy beach this is the place to stay. It might be further away from Central Amed, but there is a small walkable village with enough shops, cafés and restaurants so having your own transportation is not critical – Recommended stay: Coral View Villas is the best value for money if you want a beachfront villa in a well-cared-for, flowered garden. Even the garden bungalows are lovely, spacious and tastefully decorated. In any case, you have a direct access to the beach.

For budget travellers, Kunara Homestay is an excellent option. I stayed here during my first week in Amed, paying around €16 with breakfast included, as I was looking for a house. The rooms are spacious and clean, with air conditioning, a clean bathroom (I promise this is not a given in Bali with budget accommodation), a desk and parking space—a real commodity in Central Amed. The only thing missing was a fridge, but overall, it was great value. However, if you have problems sleeping due to the chicken and dogs, Central Amed might not be the right place for you.

And if you are looking to spend even less, then you have a few hostels around Jemeluk Bay, with dorms starting at 100,000 IDR (6€) per night.

For those looking to splurge, it is essential to note that luxury resorts in Amed are not really a thing. There are a couple of 4-star resorts, but most don’t have the standard you would expect from such hotels. However, after visiting a dozen of resorts unannounced, I finally found one that was nearly up par with the type of luxury resorts I love in places like Ubud or Sidemen: the Palm Garden Resort. Like most modern resorts, you have to go a little further away from Central Amed in Lean, the village before Banyuning (Japanese Shipwreck), the most recently developed area. But if you are looking for a spotless place to stay in style, including maybe one of their beachfront villa with a private pool, it is well worth the 15-minute drive. The garden bungalows are also very stylish and in any case you have a direct access to the beach.

Photo credits: I want to thank my underwater photography dive buddy Wan and my photographer friend Rachel for contributing to this article with the fantastic shots they took of me this year.

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